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Apr 16, 2021
What comes to mind when you think of Palermo, Sicily? I think of a lively city brimming with history, art, and culture. It is also an excellent home base to explore the northwest region of this mediterranean island. Ancient fishing villages such as Cefalù, lofty hill towns like Monreale, and picturesque resort towns such as Mondello are all nearby.
Piazza Bellini is in the heart of Palermo. I was always passing it on my way somewhere; to shop at La Vucciria market (the oldest outdoor market in Sicily), to see historic churches, going out for the delectable fresh seafood this area is know for. I found my self admiring the clean lines of Chiesa di San Cataldo and it’s stunning red cubole (domes), always thinking “I need to find the time to paint this.”
Standing serenely on Piazza Bellini its formidable stone walls have weathered many centuries (almost 1000 years)! With blind arches etching graceful patterns in its walls and airy windows veiled with filigree filtering light into the interior.
The name of the piazza (Bellini) conjures visions of effervescent cocktails and lazy afternoons in the sun. But it is not named after the aperitivo, it actually commemorates the achievements of composer Vincenzo Bellini, a son of Sicily. He was born on the other side of the island in Catania. Hence his nickname “the Swan of Catania” and became known for his operatic masterpieces.
Are you ready for a whirlwind history lesson that covers 8000 years? Just in case you are not quite the fan of history that I am, I will be brief!
Sicily is known for being a crossroad of cultures and Palermo is a perfect example. It reflects the many varied peoples that have lived here through the ages.
Eight thousand years ago, the Sicani were the original inhabitants of the area. Then in 743 BC the Phoenicians moved in and founded the forefather of today’s modern city called Ziz. Carthaginians soon took over and feuded with the Greeks who lived on the other half of the island.
Then the Punic Wars transpired and the entire island became the prize of the Ancient Roman Empire. The Romans made it their breadbasket, taking advantage of the islands rich farming and volcanic soil.
Next came the Arab conquerors who brought rice, sugar and citrus. At this time gelato was invented right here on the island!
Sicily was conquered again in 1072 by the Normans. This gave rise to their signature architecture, the Arab-Norman Style. You will find masterpieces of this style in and around Palermo. La Chiesa di San Cataldo (in my painting), Il Duomo di Monreale, and Il Duomo di Cefalù, just to name a few.
Soon after in 1194, Sicily became part of the Kingdom of Sicily and Naples. It fell under Spanish influence who contributed the baroque style to art and architecture here.
In my painting, the ornate church on the right is Chiesa di San Cataldo. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site and part of a network of architectural gems constructed in the Arab-Norman style.
Teatro Bellini is in the center, just past the chiesa. Named to honor the romantic composer.
There is a café just in front of the teatro.
Palm trees in front of and around the Chiesa show the bright, balmy climate.
People stroll through the piazza enjoying the wonderful view.
Are you ready to see me paint this lovely pizza in Sicily? Watch the video below to see a time-lapse of me painting “Piazza Bellini, Palermo”!
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